Easter week in Mexico

Easter  is a big deal down here. Not only does it start with 'santa semana'  and a week of religious and semi-religious observances but it also seems to be a traditional time when most Mexican families who can afford it de-camp of either the beach or a resort. I decided I wanted to see a bit of the more traditional ways in the small towns so I went to the west side of Lake Patzcuaro where there are many indigenous people who still follow some of the older customs. This is a view from the town of Erongaricuaro overlooking the lake and the island of Janitzio.

The island has a huge sort of moderne-style statue in the middle of it ( and a tree). I thought at first it was Jesus Christ, but no....it's Morelos......the same that Morelia is named for. Anyway I visited this town on the Thursday before Easter. There was a flower festival and also santa semana celebrations which I couldn't find....except these young guys dressed in red and black with masks kept approaching me with a whip and shaking a small bag of change. I had no idea what they wanted as they didn't seem to speak much English and my Spanish in this case really didn't fit the situation. ( I kept saying ' no entiendo' and ' que si pasa' ).Actually I was not the only one they approached; they approached everyone.  Here's a picture of one of them.

I finally came upon one who spoke English and he explained they were Judases ( as in one of the apostles) and in order to drive them away you were originally supposed to give them candy for their bag. Lately this has become more of a money thing   he told me. In fact, I had already understood from another one that the money was for a party on Saturday night.. Whatever,... the youngsters of the village really were enjoying the chase and the Judases even went into some of the local merchants  to try for their 'pieces of silver'.

Here's my English speaker. Unfortunately, I couldn't get any to raise the whip at me!

Good Friday in Morelia was a big event in my local neighbourhood . It was the 'procesio de silencio', a truly amazing display of faith which originated at the Temple of the Capucines just 2 blocks south of where I live. This procession is now a 5 hour event in Morelia. It started over by the Aqueduct, proceeds to the main cathedral for the archbishop's blessing and ends at the Capucines. Residents in my area starting decorating the day before and by Good Friday afternoon the route nearby on the way to church was festooned in purple and white with multiple religious hangings.

The police presence was also very strong. In fact , the procession itself was led by police with these scary looking dogs. Up until 2 years ago the procession was entirely dark or candlelight, but security now dictates that street lights are left on. Most parade participants are hooded, for religious reasons, but not all.

The first group beat the drums, but many others just walked, prayed, carried banners,  or crosses.

Women, men and youths were all involved. Also ropes keeping the procession from the crowds ( not so necessary in my area) were manned by scouts.....men and women. The groups seemed to be divided along parish lines with banners naming some of the local churches. Women in black with lace mantillas were particularly striking.

These women proceeded the carrying of the statute of Christ at the Column which was from the small church  of the Columna which is just a few blocks from where I live and where I went for Easter vigil. It was a very small group not more than 30. The church itself does not appear to be open regularly so I wanted a chance to see inside. There was the same statue from the procession and the walls were painted with columns and garlands of ivy. It was a very small and unassuming ceremony, part of it by candlelight...but the candles didn't light very well!

Here is the end of the procession with La Senora of Solitude at the very end as the procesio...still in silence wound down to the Capucinas church plaza at midnight. The procession was said to be 5 hours...but only took about 1 hr to pass by. Many followed it down to the church where prayers lasted more hours....so I was told...by neighbours the next day.